(This post was updated on August 30, 2018)
I love traveling by foot and exploring places in a casual, anonymous manner. The older I get, the more I gravitate towards the less-traversed paths, the locales tucked away in hidden corners away from busy traffic, and the vintage storefronts that are unassuming, yet possibly rich in stories. I've visited New York City as a tourist several times in the past and have always taken something away from the experience. However, I never quite fell in love with this "city that never sleeps"... until recently, when I've begun to explore through the eyes of a resident, with the intention of making it my home for the next few years. One aspect that I do love about this vibrant city is the variety of experiences it provides depending on the neighborhood you find yourself in. Each neighborhood has its own vibe, its own people, and its own history. Last weekend, Max and I got lost exploring Soho and eventually wandered into Greenwich Village. Oh how we loved getting lost there (more on that in a future post). The weekend prior to that, we took the subway to Brooklyn Heights, where we walked along East River, ended up at our future wedding venue, and strolled across Brooklyn Bridge just in time for sunset. The weekend before that weekend, we explored Le District---the "French area" by the World Trade Center, facing the water, where we each enjoyed a cup of Café Au Lait, unfortunately indoors, as it was pouring outside. It is the weekend again, and I can't wait to get a first impression of another part of New York City and its boroughs, where new adventures will undoubtedly await us.
As much as I look forward to these weekend adventures with Max, I also take enormous pleasure in walking through neighborhoods on my own. I can move at my own pace, stop and momentarily lose track of time, and just wander without any pressure. Max is very much a "destinations person"---he likes to know where he is going and be in control of that trip---whereas I am a "let's go down this quiet street and see what we find" kind of gal and don't mind it if we end up going around in a circle. For me, it is much more about the journey I take, and the impressions I form along the way. Of course, I don't wander endlessly and on a daily basis. Unfortunately, I don't have that kind of luxury of time, even as a graduate student, but I treat myself to one every now and then, because these are the life experiences that you make time for.
So in today's post, I'm sharing with you my first impressions of the upper part of Upper East Side. What I enjoy about this part of the city is the openness and spaciousness (compared with downtown). The tempo of life is a little slower, the buildings are a little shorter, and the atmosphere is a little more relaxed. Upper East Side has a lot of residences of different kinds, most with doormen greeting tenants by the entrance (I love this tradition!). There are plenty of grocery stores, pharmacies, dry cleaners, and nail salons. Moreover, there are endless options for take-out food, and especially no shortage of pizza restaurants and burger places. Early in the morning and mid-afternoon, I see plenty of schoolchildren. As for dogs, they are omnipresent and come in every breed you can think of. There are so many dog-owners in the Upper East Side, which I guess explains the frequent stinky smells on some of the streets (especially on humid days.... gross!), and the need for regular sidewalk washes. Another aspect I dislike about the Upper East Side is the amount of trash that collects on the street side. Again, I understand--- the trash has to get picked up at some point, and with so many residences concentrated here, a lot of trash is generated. Even so, these are small criticisms, because the Upper East Side has so much to offer. I absolutely love the close proximity of Central Park, which, in my opinion, is the city's greatest gift to its residents. I also appreciate the many world-renowned museums right at my doorstep (not literally though). And who doesn't love window-shopping along Madison Avenue, admiring the elegantly dressed doormen working on Park Avenue (and the even more fabulously dressed people that walk out of those high-end apartments), and people watching from street-side coffeehouses and restaurants that almost all have outdoor seating? :)
One note: the establishments that I detail are not always your standard landmarks or "highlights" but they are places that caught my attention and, thus, warrant some elaboration.
5th Avenue Museum Mile: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Neue Galerie, Guggenheim, Cooper Hewitt, and Jewish Museum (I still haven’t visited the Guggenheim, Cooper Hewitt or Jewish Museum; these are definitely on my list!). I will be describing these various museums in greater detail in upcoming posts. For now, I'll leave you with this hidden gem: there is a great rooftop garden at the Met, from where I captured this panorama a few years back.
Jackie Kennedy Onassis Reservoir: This is a good jogging location for me in the morning. The distance around the reservoir is managing for someone like me who is not particularly fit for running. There is always abundant company early in the morning when Central Park “opens” at 6am. Moreover, the view is breathtaking, particularly around 6:30am on a typical August day when the sun is reflected in the glistening water and there is a warm glow across the buildings beyond the foliage. I deliberately left my cell phone back in the apartment, but was kicking myself for not being able to capture the beauty of this morning. As such, I'm opting to post a panorama picture I took a few years back.
Le Pain Quotidien: This is a staple in NYC, with several locations in just the Upper East Side. I adore this restaurant/café for its communal vibe, rustic interiors, fresh flowers, and light meals. It is great for breakfast and lunch (and brunch!), for meeting friends and catching up over coffee, and even for journaling. I often see New Yorkers read and bring their work to do here. Most seating is indoors, although the Le Pain Quotidien cafés (yes, plural) within Central Park have plenty of outdoor seating. Other unique features: The coffeehouse/restaurant has its own cookbook, hazelnut spreads, and other goodies for sale.
Bluestone Lane Coffee by Central Park in the Upper East Side (photos not my own, from the business website)
Bluestone Lane Coffee (5th Ave between 89th and 90th): This is probably the prettiest coffeehouse in Upper East Side so far, and I recently had the chance to enjoy an “ice cream latte” with my wedding photographer, who also lives in the area. What makes this place so worthwhile to visit is its unique location on 5th Ave, right next to Central Park and situated just steps away from some world-class museums. The first time I came here, there were no seats available with a wait-time of 20-30 minutes. To be fair, it was a Friday evening and the Guggenheim had “pay what you wish” admission, so it probably wasn’t the best time to come. On a weekday morning or afternoon, the coffeehouse is less crowded, there are fewer tourists, and you can sit longer without feeling pressured. There are about a dozen or so tables for outdoor seating (what I would recommend). The interior is also very unique; it used to be a cathedral, and you can still see the characteristic features, such as the pointed limestone arches. The building was built by Andrew Carnegie’s widow in the 1920s, and is considered a landmark, but a less well-known one. The coffee that is served here is Australian-style; since I have only ordered an ice cream latte so far, I can’t quite comment on the difference between Australian coffee and non-Australian coffee.
Bonjour Crêpes & Wine (E 94th and Lexington): This place impressed me with its website layout and scrumptious pictures of the traditional French pastry (is this the right word?). Max is a huge fan of sweet crêpes; we have already explored one crêpes spot in Greenwich Village last weekend, where the traditional sugar crêpe costs only $2! Definitely a good deal. I, on the other hand, enjoy more of the savory galettes, filled with treats like smoked salmon or roasted turkey or ham. I jogged past this restaurant this morning before it opened and took a peek inside. It is definitely a charming place with a rustic, yet chic vibe to it. It is on the smaller, more intimate side, which is my style. It feels more like a nook than a full restaurant, with lots of wood and metal details, bar chairs, Edison light bulbs, and deep red colored walls. I can’t wait to go in for a savory treat!
Juliano Gourmet Coffee (E 91st and Lexington): Wherever I go, I am constantly in search of unique non-chain coffeehouses. I believe I acquired this interest after my study abroad time in Vienna, which is traditional, historical coffeehouse galore. The coffeehouse culture here in the city (or really, anywhere in the world) can’t quite compare with that in Vienna, but one can’t be a snob with such things. Juliano’s is a more old-fashioned coffeehouse that appears as though it has been around forever. It is nothing fancy (it doesn't even have its own website, and reviews are Yelp are mediocre) but I like it! One thing is for sure: tourists don’t come here so if you want to people watch, especially the locals that have likely lived here for generations, then this spot is for you. It is a casual establishment with about a dozen or so small marble-topped tables with mismatched chairs. Oldies music plays in the background; there is an AC unit but it doesn’t appear to be functioning (still OK, but it is surprisingly cool indoors). There is an eclectic mix of decoration on the walls---Christmas lights and faux floral decor adorn the walls. There are also gold-red Chinese New York posters (the standard ones with the single character that stands for fortune/prosperity). I even see a lit-up mini Christmas tree and it is August! I guess the decor stays all year instead of rotating. I’m OK with that, as the focus of this place is more on the drinks and the people, and not on the superficial ephemeral aspects of the business. I hear Italian in the background. There is plenty of conversation to go around the room. It is 11am on a typical Saturday and the regulars are coming in every 5-10 minutes or so. Most are taking coffee to go. They seem to know the inner workings of this place. Most are adorable older couples (in their 70s?), working professionals (in their 40s?), and joggers (ages vary) stopping in for an iced drink. In front of me, though, is a younger gentleman (maybe a graduate student?) with his backpack and reading materials. And then you have me---sitting in the corner, taking in everything about this place in my notebook since laptops are not allowed. The owner wears a red beret, thick dark rimmed glasses, a mustache, and a kind smile. There are pastries galore and very reasonably priced espresso drinks, both hot and cold, that are smoother tasting than some of the more adorned, attractive, and tourist-laden cafés. My small latte (which, by the way, is the same price as a cappuccino) was $3, taxes included. This is a cash-only place, so my $10 bill came in handy.
Marinara Pizza (E 91st and Lexington): Immediately adjacent to Juliano’s is Marinara Pizza. I had “yelped” this pizzeria prior to walking by it and was pleased with the promising 4.7/5 rating (which is quite rare for such a low-key place) and 127 reviews. I am not an avid “Yelper” (I don’t even have the Yelp app on my phone), but I do like to be informed before I commit to a place for a meal. For me, more important is a first impression of a place, which is why I like to go on these walks/runs early in the morning when traffic is low. I shall report back on this local pizzeria and share how it compares with pizza in New Haven.
Corrado Bread & Pastry (E 90th and Lexington): Just a few steps beyond Marinara across the street is Corrado Cafe. I have walked passed this place several times on my way to or from the subway; this past Friday morning was the first time I walked in and bought myself a non-espresso drink. I’m a big fan of this place. The owners are super friendly, which I care a lot about. The interior of the bakery is very small; there are a couple of bar stools along the window, but most people come here for a coffee to go and sit outside. There are four small circular tables adorned with the most beautiful colored tiles, with a pair of wrought-iron chairs next to each. The seated area is covered and it is at the intersection of Lexington and 90th, making it an ideal shaded spot for people watching (one of my favorite activities in this city). On the day I came here for my first sit-down drink, I did not have my phone with me. So I came back a few days later and took this rare photo of the bread and pastry cafe. I'm calling it "rare" because it is rare to not find people sitting outside at one of the four small tables.
- Flowers by Philip (E 88th and Lexington): There are so many florists in the city! I like this particular one because it is a little less intimidating than some of the others I have seen in the area, namely on Madison Avenue. I suppose by “less intimidating,” I really mean more welcoming. The staff is young (they might be students?), helpful, and patient. The people there smile when you walk in and talk to them. I can browse at my own pace without feeling pressured to purchase an arrangement or plant. The prices are reasonable for New York City. Importantly, the flowers and plants look robust and fresh. I have been meaning to add to my houseplant family, which currently comprises a flowering white Kalanchoe, basil, Schefflera arboricola (Dwarf Umbrella tree), and a baby succulent. I’m looking to adopt a fifth.
Variety Coffee Roasters (E 85th and Lexington): This is a popular and busy coffee establishment located at the intersection of two bustling streets. I have yet to find a seat here and try the espresso drinks, but I can comment on the space, which is gorgeous. (UPDATE: I recently snatched a seat early in the morning and stayed at the cafe for 2 hours. I have, thus, updated this description). There are high ceilings, stylish decor, and plenty of light through the floor-to-ceiling windows that surround this corner coffeehouse. Because of its ideal location by a subway station, there are many professionals that stop here for a chat or to work on their laptops. I initially thought that I would feel uncomfortable working here for an extended amount of time, as the turnover rate seems quite high. I was wrong. While finding a seat is challenging, no one pressures you to leave; on the contrary, I was encouraged to get hot water refills on my tea! The day I visited Variety Coffee, I sat at one of the tables surrounding the palm tree in the center of the room. I had a great view of the room and could also watch New Yorkers commute to work. Everything was moving so quickly out on the streets, but inside this coffee shop, time seemed to move at a slower pace. Even the decor seems to reference an earlier era, with its omnipresent brass elements, round black marble tables, and pendant-like globe-shaped lights illuminating the room. I'm not a design expert, but I'm thinking mid century modern elements? The room feels spacious, airy, and just oh-so-inviting. The background music is soft and the AC is kept at a reasonable temperature (i.e., it is not freezing inside). As for beverage offerings, Variety Coffee Roasters likes to keep it simple. The place offers coffee, espresso, americano, macchiato, cortado, cappuccino, latte, mocha, as well as chai tea and a variety of loose leaf teas. The prices are reasonable for New York City, with the most expensive drink at $5 for a mocha or chai latte. Only a single size is offered. I would recommend paying this place a visit, if you can find a seat.
Shake Shack (E 86th between Lexington and 3rd): This is still my favorite burger place to-date. There are many Shake Shacks scattered across the city and they make equally high quality burgers for a very good price. Max and I recently tried out another burger place, called Bareburgers, and we both enjoyed our specialty burgers, but we were underwhelmed. There is just something really great about the no-nonsense classic “Shackburger” that Shake Shack serves. The bun is fantastic, the meat is well-cooked (but not burnt), the tomato and lettuce are fresh colored, and the sauce is not overpowering. My first Shackburger was actually in New Haven, CT. Max and I had watched the 60-minutes CBS documentary on Shake Shack and we were sold (to some degree thanks to Anderson Cooper). Since then, we’ve been big fans and are regulars at this particular Shake Shack location. This one located in the UES has outdoor seating with plenty of space, which is a plus. It is always busy, but the wait time is relatively short.
New discovery: 3 Decker Diner: Max and I went here for breakfast and LOVED it! I am certain we will become regulars in this neighborhood diner. More to share soon!
Another new discovery and favorite: Dig Inn: We went here for dinner recently, and Max (who said he just wanted a snack because he was not hungry) developed quite an appetite and enjoyed every bite of his meal! I'm a big fan and will share why very soon!
That's it for this first impression neighborhood walk around the upper Upper East Side. If there is interest, I will continue to post these "insider guides" to New York City inspired by my neighborhood strolls.
Thank you for reading, fellow readers!
Warm regards,
Catherine